Acetate Sunglasses: Frame, Lens and Colour

Cellulose acetate is a defining material in fine eyewear. Derived from cellulose obtained from cotton or wood pulp, it differs from ordinary moulded plastic in its depth of colour and the finish it takes. Colour runs through the material rather than sitting on its surface, giving it warmth and a particular relationship with light. Polishing brings out a soft, even sheen and a smooth feel against the skin.

The maker matters. Colour depth, material stability and the quality of the finish distinguish one acetate from another.

Every Via Montenapoleone frame is made from 100% Mazzucchelli 1849 acetate. The company began in 1849 as a small workshop making combs and buttons from horn, bone and tortoiseshell, and became one of the great references in cellulose acetate for eyewear. It is still run by the Mazzucchelli family in Castiglione Olona, in Lombardy. Its acetates are known for the depth of their colours and the quality of their finish.

Black acetate sunglasses offer the clearest graphic line. They draw a clean line across the face and work with almost everything, from a white shirt to evening wear. In the Via Montenapoleone line, black comes with gold-tone details on model 01 and silver-tone details on models 02 and 03.

Tortoiseshell-pattern acetate has a warmer character. Its pattern recalls the tortoiseshell once used for combs and frames; it softens the contrast with the skin and sits easily with natural colours, linen and lighter clothing. The 04, 05 and 06 frames pair tortoiseshell-pattern acetate with gold-tone details, model 05 in a deeper amber tortoiseshell pattern.

Ivory is the least expected of the three. Light against the face, it gives the frame a sculptural presence without the visual weight of black. The 07 and 08 frames combine ivory acetate with gold-tone details.

The tone of the metal matters too. A gold-tone monogram sits naturally with warm colours and gold jewellery; silver-tone details echo steel watches, silver and cooler palettes.

Polarised lenses filter glare reflected from surfaces such as water, wet roads and snow, making bright conditions more comfortable. In the Via Montenapoleone line, only models 01, 02, 04 and 07 have polarised black lenses.

Gradient lenses are darker at the top and lighter below. This reduces brightness from above while leaving the lower field of view less tinted, whether looking at a table, a page or a screen. Model 03 has blue gradient lenses; model 05 has tea-coloured gradient lenses.

Yellow lenses give models 06 and 08 their distinctive character. Their warm tint makes colour an integral part of the frame’s expression.

Lens darkness alone does not indicate UV protection. UV400 refers to protection against ultraviolet light up to a wavelength of 400 nanometres, covering UVA and UVB rays. All Via Montenapoleone lenses offer UV400 protection, regardless of their colour.

The lenses are made from pure nylon, selected for its lightness and impact resistance. The inner surface has an anti-reflective treatment to limit reflections from behind, alongside a blue-light filter. Both surfaces have oleophobic and hydrophobic treatments to repel oil and water and make fingerprints easier to remove. The lenses also have enhanced scratch resistance.

A balanced frame works with the proportions of the face. As a guide, its upper edge sits close to the eyebrows, the eyes fall near the centre of each lens, and the frame does not extend too far beyond the widest part of the face. A frame that sits too low or too wide can disturb that balance.

Via Montenapoleone frames use sculptural proportions to create a distinct, balanced presence. An optician can adjust the acetate temples with controlled heat to refine the fit and help the frame sit evenly.

Clean the lenses only with a microfibre cloth: paper tissues and clothing can leave fine scratches on the lens coatings. When the pair is not being worn, keep it in its case rather than loose in a pocket, and never set it down on its lenses. Avoid strong heat, such as a car dashboard in summer: acetate softens with temperature and the frame can lose its shape.

Named after one of Milan’s most celebrated streets, the Via Montenapoleone line brings these choices together in eight frames: black, tortoiseshell-pattern or ivory acetate, gold-tone or silver-tone signature details, and polarised, gradient or yellow lenses. Each design is produced as a limited edition of 99 individually numbered pieces and comes with a structured leather case, a satin pouch and a Via Montenapoleone microfibre cloth.