Silk, our Maison Signature
Silk is discovered as much through the fingertips as through the eye. First comes its lustre, then its softness; we linger over its drape, the way it follows a gesture and then falls away. To wear it is to feel the meeting of cloth and body, the gentle yielding of a fabric that gives the silhouette its freedom.
At Maison Kargani, a Swiss house founded in Geneva, this sensitivity to fabric is the starting point for our silk wardrobe. Our shirts are made in the Milan region of Italy from Como silk. We choose it for what it reveals to the eye, as much as for what it allows us to feel.
The beginnings of an affection
Monsieur Kargani discovered silk in his youth, on journeys through Asia, particularly India. He remembers its colours, its drape, the way it follows the body without fixing its lines. A fabric could catch the eye from afar, then reveal between the fingers a softness that an image alone could never convey.
That affection now accompanies the creation of the Maison’s shirts, scarves and trousers. It invites us to consider a garment beyond its silhouette: in the movement of a sleeve, the weight of a fold, the feel of cloth against the skin. These sensations, too, make us want to wear a piece and return to it.
A fabric that traces the history of the world
Silk carries a history that crosses borders. Originating in ancient China, it reached, among other places, the Roman and Byzantine worlds, where it became a fabric of prestige.1 Through exchange, cultures made it their own, giving it their colours, their patterns and their uses.
In the Persian world, patterned textiles of the Sasanian tradition bear witness to an art of ornament that Safavid silks would continue, much later and in different forms. In seventeenth-century Iran, sashes combining silk and metallic threads were worn at the waist.1011 At Mongol courts, ceremonial robes brought silk and gold together. The Ottomans fashioned it into kaftans and robes of honour, bestowed as part of imperial ceremony.1213 In Mughal India, silk enriched garments through embroidery, as on the hunting coat preserved at the Victoria and Albert Museum.14
In Japan, it lends itself to the art of the kimono and the robes worn with it. In the late Edo period, the uchikake worn by high-ranking women of the samurai class were adorned with flowers woven and embroidered in silk.15
From one culture to another, cloth can denote rank, celebrate an occasion or express a taste. These histories nourish Monsieur Kargani’s interest in a material whose beauty has taken so many forms. They also remind us how much a garment can tell before a word is spoken.
Como, a history woven in silk
Our choice of Como silk belongs to a textile history patiently built over time. In the fifteenth century, the Sforza rulers encouraged mulberry cultivation and silk production in the Duchy of Milan. Galeazzo Maria Sforza invested in these activities in 1468–69; Ludovico Sforza later supported mulberry cultivation in turn.23 Its leaves feed the silkworm, whose cocoon supplies the thread.4
Silk working in Como dates to the sixteenth century. Treccani places the early development of local weaving in its second half.56 Nineteenth-century industrial growth, particularly in the latter half, helped make the city a major European centre for production and export.6
The Silk Museum preserves the evidence of this history: reeling, weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing.6 This succession of crafts offers another way to understand the cloth. Its softness, its pattern and its colour result from work on the material at every stage of its transformation.
The silk for our shirts comes from Como. Our silk shirts and trousers are made in the Milan region. Our scarves are made entirely in Como. Geneva remains the starting point for our perspective.
The depth of colour
A shade must be judged in the cloth. We discover it laid flat, then in a fold, against the skin and in the light. On silk, it may seem denser in one place, lighter in another. Movement brings the variations that hold our attention.
In the Maison’s solid-colour silks, dyeing gives our palette its full depth: Signature red, champagne — the Maison’s colour, echoed in our woven labels — black and navy blue. Each has a different presence, from the luminous softness of champagne to the intensity of red, from the depth of black to the restraint of navy. These shades express a shared sensibility, a love of colour that extends to the details of the garment.
Colour is developed, tested and refined. Numerous colourimetric tests allow us to adjust shades, contrasts and harmonies on silk. This research informs our command of printed colour: some scarves bring together up to one hundred tonal variations within a single composition. Every shade matters, down to the subtlest transitions between colours, giving depth to the design and preserving the delicacy of its details.
On the Via Montenapoleone, Portrait of Geisha, Budo 2 and Budo 3 Signature shirts, compositions unfold across the surface of the fabric. The folds reveal one detail, then another; the image changes as it is worn.
What the hand discovers
Our silk receives an extra-soft finish, chosen for its feel against the skin. We give this sensation the same attention as colour.
Taking a fabric in the hand, letting it fall, brushing its surface: these gestures reveal a part of the garment that photography cannot convey. Finishing contributes to this feel, alongside the fibre and the weave. For the Maison, it is an integral part of creating a piece.
Silk twill
Twill is recognised by its fine diagonals. They arise from the regular offset of the interlacing points between warp and weft threads. This weave generally allows a more supple drape than a comparable plain weave.7
Monsieur Kargani has a particular affection for this fabric, which is central to our silk wardrobe. Up close, the weave gives texture to the surface; worn, the fabric reveals its drape and reflections. Their character depends on the yarns, the construction of the cloth and its finish.
Caring for silk
Follow the care label: it takes account of the complete garment, its colour and its finish.8 For our silk shirts, always favour professional dry cleaning. If washing in water, use cold water only and follow the label’s instructions. Have a professional assess stains before any treatment; avoid rubbing the fabric or applying an untested product.
Iron only when permitted, following the temperature and steam instructions. If in doubt, entrust it to a professional.8 Store your pieces clean and dry, without compressing them, away from prolonged direct sunlight and sources of heat.9
The silk wardrobe
Discover our silk shirts for men, our silk shirts for women, and the scarves and trousers in our Silkwear collection.
Frequently asked questions
Where are Maison Kargani’s silk shirts made?
Our silk shirts are made in the Milan region of Italy from Como silk. Maison Kargani is a Swiss house founded in Geneva.
What is silk twill?
It is a silk fabric with a twill weave, recognised by its diagonals. Its appearance and feel also depend on the yarns and finishing.7
Are the Maison’s solid-colour silks printed?
No. Our solid-colour silks are dyed, with no printed design. They express the Maison’s palette: Signature red, champagne, black and navy blue.
Which Signature shirts are printed?
Via Montenapoleone, Portrait of Geisha, Budo 2 and Budo 3 are printed Signature silk shirts. Their production draws on more than one hundred tonal variations, refined through colourimetric testing to reproduce the full depth and fine detail of our Signature artworks on silk.
How should the Maison’s silk shirts be cared for?
We recommend always favouring professional dry cleaning. If you choose to wash in water, use cold water only and follow the care label’s instructions.
Who creates the Maison’s Signature artworks?
All our Signature artworks are unique, original creations, drawn in our creative studio under the artistic direction of Monsieur Kargani. Each tells the history of the world in its own way and explores the subtle connection between the visible and the invisible, between what an image reveals and what it leaves us to sense. Every artwork is accompanied by a poem written by Monsieur Kargani, presented under the title “The Visual Narrative”, extending the story beyond the image.
How are the edges of your scarves finished?
All our scarves are hand-rolled. This finish creates a delicate hem that defines the edge of the cloth.
What are your delivery and returns arrangements?
Delivery is free to every destination we ship to, with duties and taxes included. Orders within Switzerland are shipped via Swiss Post Signature, while international orders are sent with DHL Express. Returns are free within 14 days of delivery.